Energy Seal Box & Logo

Energy Seal Log Caulk

$0.00$250.95

ENERGY SEAL Log Caulk is designed to seal milled and scribed log homes. One application makes any log wall completely weather-tight. ENERGY SEAL has more adhesion and stretch than any other sealant you can buy and is long-lasting, UV-stable and chemical-resistant.

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Product Description

pdf.pngClick here for the Application Guide 

 


Energy Seal is created specifically to seal milled or scribed log homes and around joinery such as butt-joints, trim and corners. One application makes any log wall completely weather-tight. Energy Seal has excellent adhesion and stretch. It is long-lasting, UV-stable and chemical-resistant. Unlike commonly used sealants which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood. It easily tools to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it’s applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls; most people can’t tell the seams are sealedBoth homeowners and professional contractors can easily apply Energy Seal.

 

  • Highly Elastic
  • Eliminates air and water infiltration
  • Remains flexible to allow for log movement
  • Very low VOC formula
  • For exterior and interior, between logs and even tongue and groove systems
  • Lightly textured appearance
  • Soap and water cleanup
  • Stainable
  • Easy to apply with a standard caulking gun

 

Coverage

When applied to 5/16th to 3/8” thickness

Bead Size 11 oz 30 oz 5 gallon
1/2″ gap 16 LF 48 LF 975 LF
¾” gap 11 LF 32 LF 650 LF
1” gap 8   LF 24 LF 490 LF
For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink

 

Product Facts

Shelf Life
  • 1 Year
Application Temperature
  • 40°F  to 90°F
Application Methods
  • Chink Pump
  • Bulk-loading gun and follow plate
  • Ratchet caulking gun
  • Application bag
Surface Preparation
  • Clean and dry
  • Backing material
  • Bond breaker tape on bare wood
  • Do not apply ENERGYSEAL over old caulk
Frequency
  • As needed
Special Instructions
  • Apply to approximately 3/8″ thickness
  • Avoid application in direct sunlight
  • Do not apply Energy Seal over old caulk.
  • If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying Energy Seal
  • When Energy Seal is applied prior to an oil based stain, complete curing must take place before stain application
  • Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of 3/8” across the entire joint after tooling
  • Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes
Drying Time
  • Skins over in 1-2 hours
  • Cure in 2-8 weeks depending on temperature and humidity
  • Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, Energy Seal will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take 3 – 4 weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process.

Colors

 Energy Seal Colors

 

How to Choose a Color

For the least visible sealant lines: choose a sealant color that’s a shade lighter than the stain you plan to use because it’s easier to cover a lighter color sealant with a darker color stain than it is to hide a dark colored sealant with a light colored stain.

For visible sealant lines: you may apply Energy Seal after you stain.  If you stained with an oil base stain, you must test adhesion of Energy Seal after 4-8 weeks of stain curing time. If using Lifeline products it is best to apply Lifeline Advancetopcoat after the Energy Seal. This results in a more even appearance, helps them blend in with the rest of the wall and makes sealants easier to clean.

 

Always double check your color choice with a free Energy Seal Sample Color Card, to get a real-time view of what cured Energy Seal looks like and find the best color match for your project.

 

Measuring and Calculating Linear Feet

When it comes to ordering sealants like Energy Seal there are two dimensions that you need to know to determine how much product you will need:

  1. Width of the gaps or joints. Determine gap width by:
    • If it is a chink joint on a squared log it’s the average distance between upper and lower log surfaces.
    • Width of the gap and size of the backer rod that determines the width of the Energy Seal.
  1. Cumulative length (linear feet) of those gaps and joints. Calculate linear feet by:
  • Keep it simple by measuring one wall at a time then add all of the walls together after you have completed all individual wall calculations.
  1. Start by measuring the length of the wall with a tape measure.
  2. Count the number of joints you need to seal. Usually it is the number of log courses minus one.
  3. Then multiply the length of the wall by the number of joints you need to seal, this will give you the linear feet of sealant required for that wall.
  4. Don’t worry about subtracting the windows or doors unless they take up a substantial portion of the wall area. You will need to seal around them anyway.
  5. If you are planning to run a bead of sealant in the corners or other vertical seams of round logs you need to know the height of the wall then multiply the height by a factor of 1.25 to compensate for the increased surface area created by the curvature of the logs.

Once you have determined both the width of the sealant joint and total number of linear feet, go to Energy Seal Calculator. The calculator will tell you the number of pails required to complete your project.  If you were thinking about using tubes consider this, the price difference between two pails of Energy Seal and an equal amount of material in tubes more than covers the cost of a Cox Bulk Loading Gun and Follow Plate.

 

Surface Preparation

Please Note:

  • Do not apply Energy Seal over old caulk.
  • Best to apply Energy Seal after walls have been cleaned and before stain is applied.
  • Do not apply to oily or glass smooth surfaces.
  • Some paraffin based stains and sealants may cause adhesion problems (if in doubt, test small area for adhesion).
  1. Caulking area must be clean, dry and free from loose or foreign materials.
  2. Before starting, inspect the installation of all backing materials. Where individual pieces of backing join to one another, make sure there are no gaps, ledges or discontinuities so that they don’t show through after the sealant has cured. Smooth, trim or bridge gaps with tape as necessary.
  3. Request a copy of “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from LogFinish.com for information about surface preparation and sealant application

 

Backer Rod

Energy Seal and Backer RodBacking materials are an integral part of a sealant system and should be used wherever possible. The overall performance of any sealant system is dependent on the use of correct application thickness and proper backing. For small joinery the most commonly used backing is round backer rod. It comes in a range of sizes and is relatively inexpensive. It is flexible it and can be pushed into a crevice without needing to be nailed or stapled. In situations where joinery is too narrow to insert some type of backing material, a narrow strip of water-resistant masking tape works well. (Avoid masking tape that wrinkles when wet because the wrinkles may show through the sealant after it has cured.) A good option is to use pinstripe tape available at most automotive supply stores. The tape is waterproof, so Energy Seal  does not adhere to it, making it a suitable backer material. Pinstripe tape is available in widths down to 1/8”. After about 30 minutes Energy Seal may then be applied over the backer rod without displacing it.

How to install Backer Rod


Weather

  • Freshly applied sealants should be protected from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. Either watch the weather or drape a newly sealed wall with plastic film. Be sure to allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying.
  • Avoid applying sealants in cold weather (below 40°F [4°C] ) it’s important that the logs be free of frost and dew in order to ensure that the sealant adheres tightly to the wood
  • Apply when sealant and surface temperatures are between 40°F and 90°F
  • Do not apply in direct sunlight
  • Do not apply if rain is expected within 24 hours

 

Application

  • Energy Seal is compatible with most stains. For maximum adhesion and least visibility use Energy Seal on bare wood prior to staining. If Energy Seal is to be used over newly applied stains or topcoats, apply the product in an hidden area, wait 24 hours and test for adhesion.
  • Wear old clothes and shoes. Energy Seal is not easily removed from fabric. Discard used rags, etc. in proper disposal containers.
  • Always maintain a clean working area.
  • When ready to quit for the day, leave bag or gun containing material in a moderately warm place. The open ends of the bag or gun will form a “plug“; this will prevent the rest of the material from curing.
  • When ready to begin again, squeeze the plug out, discard hardened material and continue.
  • When reusing an open bucket of material, be sure to remove any partially curedskinbefore filling bag or gun.

 

Please Note: Temperature and humidity are largely responsible for log movement. When the temperature rises, the logs will expand, and at the coldest temperature, they will contract. When you apply sealant during cold, damp conditions the logs will more than likely be at the smallest dimensions (after some normal shrinkage may have occurred). Then when the weather dries out and warms up, the sealant will normally relax. Conversely, if you apply your sealant during hot, dry conditions, the joint will be at its smallest point, and when temperatures fall or weather turns very humid, the logs may contract and put the sealant in stress. Sometimes the contraction or movement may be severe enough to tear the sealant.

Sealing Doors and Windows with Energy Seal - Step Sealing Logs with Energy Seal


 

  1. Cut the applicator tip to the desired diameter of the sealant bead you want to apply.
  2. Begin by holding the applicator tip firmly against the seam and apply a bead of sealant.
  3. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of at least 5/16” and no more than ½” across the entire seam after tooling.
  4. Apply as much sealant as you can tool smooth in about 15 minutes to avoid a dried skin before final finishing.
  5. After the joint is filled, trowel out to approximately 3/8ththick across the entire joint, making sure there is good contact between the sealant and the wood.
  6. Do not spray with water at this time! Be careful to maintain proper thickness especially in corners
  7. All joints should be tooled by spraying a small amount of water onto the chinking and smooth to the desired finish. Always trowel in such a way as to form a good seal to the wood. Maintain a depth a little more than 1/4″, as the material will shrink slightly when cured.

Tip: Occasionally check the sealant using a toothpick to see if you are maintaining proper thickness. Once the sealant is roughly in place with air worked out of it, spray it with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula.

Do not saturate the surface with water. If it begins to run you have applied too much.

Tip: If you used masking tape at the edges of the Energy Seal, remove it now and smooth out edges with your tool.

 

Interior sealant

All logs should be clean and free of dirt, sawdust, and oil or grease. If gasket tape was supplied by home manufacturer, apply as per instructions. Then, apply a 1/4″ or 3/8″ bead directly from the caulking gun.

Continue this as logs go up.

 

Exterior Sealant Instead of Chinking

The depth should be no less than 1/4″ and no more than 1/2″. To provide proper two-point adhesion, always use a backer rod or a “breakertape prior to the application.

 

Sealing around Windows and Doors

Sealing Doors and Windows with Energy Seal - Step 1 Sealing Doors and Windows with Energy Seal - Step 4Sealing Doors and Windows with Energy Seal - Step 3  Sealing Doors and Windows with Energy Seal - Step 2


 

Capture


 

 

Curing and Drying

 Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, Energy Seal will begin to skin over (indication of drying) in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process.

 

Clean Up

Applying Energy Seal on woodPlease note: If you get any sealant on the surface of the wood, be sure to wipe it off with a wet rag immediately. Dried sealant is very difficult to remove. Clean your tools and equipment with clean water occasionally during application.

  1. Remove masking tape.
  2. If properly applied, the cleanup area for Energy Seal should be confined to the tube and utensils used.
  3. Warm soap and water is sufficient for proper clean up.

 

Storage

Store Energy Seal at moderate temperatures, in a clean, dry place, out of direct sunlight. Do not allow the material to freeze. Do not store in close proximity to radiant heat sources like fireplaces or wood stoves, as the excessive heat may cause the material to start curing.

 

Shipping

Energy Seal is available for shipment to all 50 states via FedEx.

 

 

 


MSDSClick here for this product’s MSDS

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