How to Seal Drafty Windows on Your Log Home

With the cold weather creeping in, drafty windows can be a big issue. It’s more important than ever to make sure your home is properly sealed off from the harsh weather outdoors.

Many log cabin owners struggle with drafty windows, but do not understand the full reason behind them. Good insulation can only do so much when your home is a log cabin. The cracks between the logs are the primary reason for the draftiness.

The solution is the combination of the Log Gap Cap and Log Builder Log Home Caulk, or Conceal Textured Caulk for Wood from These two products work together to fill any window gaps between your home and window to keep out the cold. 

Step 1: Tape off the areas to be sealed around the drafty window

to stop Drafty Windows first tape up the side of your logs near the window

There’s no reason to get any product where it isn’t needed. So with the tape, you’ll protect the areas that don’t need any product. Use painter’s tape (available at any hardware store) to protect the wood surface.

Step 2: Insert Log Gap Cap behind drafty window

stop Drafty Windows first with log gap caps in gaps

The Log Gap Cap is a piece of pre-cut foam created for the purpose of sealing cracks and gaps around windows. These are proven to increase energy efficiency. They are built to be resistant to mold, rot, and bacteria. They will NOT absorb any moisture.

Step 3: Apply Conceal or Log Builder according to directions. Smooth it to ensure a tight seal.

Drafty Windows now sealed with log builder

This caulk is designed to absorb any log movement while simultaneously keeping a watertight seal. Log Builder and Conceal will not crack and peel away like other caulks. It is created to keep water, air, bugs, and more out of your home and last the test of time.

Step 4: Remove the tape after smoothing and before the sealant skins over. Finally, step back and enjoy your handiwork. 

after caulking the end of Drafty Windows

Now’s the time you can kick back and enjoy your properly sealed log cabin! No more drafty windows!

Get the supplies you need to seal your drafty windows here

Log Gap Caps for Log Siding

Log Gap Caps for Full Log Insulation

Log Builder Log Home Caulk

Conceal Textured Caulk for Wood

Thank you to our friends at Sashco for sharing this great info!

How to Restore Weathered Wood

It’s summer. You have a deck, and want to use it. But every time you look out on your backyard, the dull, faded tones of your deck make you want to close the blinds, and never go outside again.

example of deck before and after X-180

What about bleach? You can use household bleach to brighten wood, for sure. Just like your clothes, it lightens the wood’s color and kills some mildew. But, getting any amount of bleach on plant foliage will cause plants to lose their leaves, and you’ll be getting bleach everywhere, where your kids, pets, and plants live. Definitely not fun for the whole family.

X-180: The Solution to Gray, Faded Wood

But wait! Your deck was beautiful once, and it can be again. Today I’m going to share with you a little known secret that contractors use to make old wood look like new. It’s called, X-180 Weathered Wood Restorer.

Log home before and after using X-180
LogFinish customer using x-180, showing his progress on his log home

Even though it sounds like a sports car (and it certainly performs like one), X-180 is the all-in-one solution to faded, dirt-covered, mildew or fungus-ridden wood. Whatever is making your wooden deck or home look sad, X-180 is the trick to get it looking great again. 

Oh, and if you have mill glaze on your new wood, it can fix that too.

I had a pretty small but pretty important job at our “new” 1956 mid-century modern house. The front entryway had rough paneling (maybe Western Fir?) that had been badly neglected. It was very dirty, weathered, and gray – and just kinda ugly. After much thoughtful and patient consulting with your staff, we selected the X-180 for cleaning – WOW! That stuff is amazing! The wood came clean and popped out red, like cedar.

~ Al, Athens, GA 

X-180 neutralizes paint strippers, stain strippers, and bleach solutions. It even restores the natural pH of the wood, which is important for the longevity of the wood. You still have to rinse it off, but the runoff is biodegradable, so it won’t harm the environment.

Everyone here can’t believe the results with X-180, and they are tough to convince about any product!

~ Steve W., Contractor

From small projects to the whole house, if you have weathered wood, X-180 Weathered Wood Restorer is the smart choice. It will save you many hours of work, and the environment at the same time.

The LogFinish Difference

When you buy X-180 from LogFinish, we include free, detailed directions, carefully crafted over many years to help you avoid the common problems people have when applying X-180. And we are always on call if you have any questions or issues. Just give us a ring at 888-208-2248, or email us: [email protected], and we can help you get your summer project started!

Deck that used Seal-Once Nano Plus Poly Premium Wood Sealer for Siding Logs and DecksP.S. If you just clean your wood and forget about it, your wood will turn gray and gross again very quickly. While you have your tools out, make the smart investment and protect the wood for the sun’s UV damage, and water. We recommended Seal-Once Nano + Poly Premium Wood Sealer for Siding, Logs and Decks. This new product is a revolution in the industry, and how it protects your home, and the environment. Learn why here.

Start your Summer Project Right with LogFinish

Now is the perfect time to tackle that home care project that’s on your to-do list. Whether it’s reapplying stain to your wooden home, sprucing up that shabby looking deck, or dealing with those pesky carpenter bees, summer is the best time for these project because they need several days of uninterrupted rain-free days.

But, finding the right product for the job is key. Too often, people use the wrong product, or apply it on the wrong way. The result? Within a year or two, their homes are looking terrible, peeling, cracking, and fading.

At LogFinish, we don’t let that happen. We know if your home is looking great, we’ve done our job well.

Solve those Pesky Problems

Take our customer Duane for example. For years, his home was plagued by carpenter bees drilling into the wood. But when he called us, we helped him find the right product for the job. Once he applied NBS 30 Natural Insect Repellent, here’s what he told us:

My home, wrapped in cypress, was “carpenter bee central” when we bought it 5 years ago. Some of the facia boards looked like Swiss cheese. I found this wonderful NBS 30 and it has been a God-send. It was supposed to keep the bees away for three years and it actually lasted four. We are sealing again right now and you can bet your sweet behind I’ve added NBS 30 to every ounce of the sealer. I highly recommend this product to anyone with a carpenter bee infestation.

– Duane, LogFinish customer

Get the Right Color

One of the toughest decisions a home owns must make when staining or finishing their home, is picking the right color. You can look at samples of the color online, but it’s never really what your wood on your home is going to look like.

That’s why we provide color sample kits, completely free (including shipping). The best way to see what a product will look like on your home, is to put it on your home. 

When Jan called us, she was stuck in this color conundrum. After answer all of her questions, we sent her a sample kit with a few colors to try out. She was impressed with what she got:

I’d also just like to make note and thank you for the way that you’ve done business thus far. Your friendliness and professionalism stands out. We received the sample kit when you said that we would and the literature enclosed was very helpful. I’m also very grateful for the quick reply to our questions yesterday. It’s helped to create a feeling of confidence in you and your product. We look forward to doing business with you.

Jan – South Sutton, NH

Answer All Your Technical Questions

If you have a log home, you know the difficulties that come with it. Chinking and caulking can be confusing, and it’s hard to know which product to use. We have years of experience with the chinking and caulking products we sell, and love sharing what we know. Whether you’re a homeowner, or a contractor like Lora & Rob, we have the expertise to fit your needs:

We have found the people at to be the most friendly, knowledgeable and reliable supplier that we do business with.  They are extremely efficient and above and beyond the point of being helpful. We have never had an issue getting the materials we need, when we need them.

We feel very fortunate to have come into contact with a company that not only offers the highest possible quality materials in their field, but also conducts their business in such a pleasant yet professional manner.

– Lora Williams & Rob Griffith
   Deck The Walls Painting

For all of our products, we included carefully written directions, to give you step-by-step instruction on how to apply it, what tools to use, and what pitfalls to avoid. 

We want your project to be a success, and love seeing the result. Here are just a few pictures of happy customers, and their homes.

Start your next project on the right foot. Visit us at If you have any questions, from beginner to advanced, give us a call at 888-208-2248, or email us at [email protected], and we will be happy to get you the information you need to make the right choice for your summer project.

We are Still Open During the Coronavirus Outbreak

During the COVID-19 Crisis while you are at home, we want you to know that is open for business with regular business hours Monday – Friday from 9AM – 5PM. Our warehouse is fully stocked with the products you need to keep your home, decks, and docks looking great.

  • Order online at
  • Order by Phone Toll Free 888-208-2248
  • Pick up at the Warehouse or FedEx will deliver to your door

– The Team

NEW Seal Once Products for Cleaning, Waterproofing, and Sealing Concrete

Seal Once Products for Cleaning, Waterproofing, and Sealing Concrete

In addition to our log home finishing products, carries the complete Seal-Once line of products for cleaning, waterproofing, and sealing the concrete used in the foundations, crawlspaces and driveways of log and timber frame homes.

As many log and timber frame homes are built on hillsides or mountainsides, controlling moisture and water can be a major issue. Here is a summary of the products we offer and what they can do for you:

 Seal-Once Concrete/Masonry Cleaner

Before sealing any concrete floor, wall, or driveway it is essential that all construction and environmental dirt, mold and mildew  be removed first. Seal-Once Concrete/Masonry Cleaner is a safe to use sodium percarbonate cleaner that will safely and thoroughly clean your concrete prior to waterproofing and or sealing.

Seal-Once Negative Pressure Waterproofer

Do you have an issue with moisture or water coming into a Basement or Crawlspace through your concrete? Negative Pressure Waterproofer forms a gel within the concrete to block water flow up to 15 PSI hydrostatic pressure. Seal-Once Negative Pressure Waterproofer is  non-flammable, non-toxic, and safe to use.

Seal-Once NANO + POLY Concrete & Masonry Sealer

Do you need to seal a concrete surface prior to applying a final finish? Seal-Once NANO + POLY Concrete and Masonry Sealer is a water based, non-toxic, eco-friendly sealer that will not harm pets, plants or people. It goes on milky white, dries clear and cleans up with soap and water. It is a great investment to protect and extend the useful life of your concrete driveway, walkways, patio, pool deck, garage floor, stamped concrete, bricks or pavers. Seal-Once NANO + POLY is also ideal to seal concrete prior to the installation of carpet, tile or laminate flooring.

Chink Paint vs Chinking

Article content courtesy of Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.

Many log home manufacturers offer squared log homes with cosmetic chink joints. Although some owners of these style homes ignore these cosmetic joints and just stain over them, others like the look of a chink style home which may be the reason that they bought the home in the first place. The question is…. when should you use Perma-Chink Log Chinking in these cosmetic joints versus using Chink Paint?

When cosmetic joints are less than 3/8 inches deep the answer is fairly easy. Unless the log home manufacturer specifies the use of Perma-Chink, Chink Paint is textured to look like chinking, less expensive and much easier to apply, especially if you are planning to do it yourself. Since there is no room for backing material, we have seen several instances when a thin layer of Perma-Chink was applied directly over bare wood and blisters formed in the chinking. Even if the bare wood is covered with masking tape it may still not be a good idea to use Perma-Chink. If the Perma-Chink only has a 1/4” lip of wood to hold onto on the upper and lower edges there may not be enough surface area for good adhesion. If Perma-Chink is applied and masking tape is used as a backer in shallow chink joints it’s especially important to make sure that the tape does not cover any edges. If it does there will be virtually no adhesion of the Perma-Chink at that point.

Whenever Chink Paint is used and a seam is present within the cosmetic joint the seam may be first sealed with Energy Seal. Once the Energy Seal is dry, Chink Paint can be applied over it. Do not use masking tape under Chink Paint. It will prevent the Chink Paint from adhering to the wood and may eventually peel off.

When cosmetic chink joints are 3/8 inches deep or deeper, Perma-Chink may be used but you should be aware that Chink Paint is a less expensive alternative that’s much easier to apply. If the joint is deep enough to accommodate both backing material and the proper thickness of Perma-Chink, it’s best to actually chink it to prevent water from accumulating on top of the bottom lip.

Log Home Glossary: Log Home Related Terminology and Definitions

Below you will find an alphabetized list of terms with definitions that are related to all things associated with log home products and maintenance. Knowledge is powerful! We hope the definitions help you when talking with contractors, researching products online, and when you call us at

ACRYLIC: A type of synthetic polymer used as a binder for high-performance water-based paints, stains and caulks.

AIRLESS  SPRAYER: A method of painting that uses high pressure to spray stain, paint or other materials.

ALKYD: A synthetic resin or binder used in most commercial “oil-based” stains or paints.

ATOMIZE: The breaking –up of paint or stain into fine particles or droplets by a paint gun.

BACKBRUSHING: The process of working the stain into a rougher surface after it has been sprayed while the stain is still wet.

BACKER ROD: Backer rod is extruded closed-cell polyethylene rod that is used in cracks, checks and gaps before filling them with sealants.

BEADING: Relates to the way oil based stains repel water.

BLISTERING: Effects of pressure from either a solvent or moisture under a coating causing swelling or blister in the finish.

BLUSHING: A milky appearance of a topcoat caused by high humidity where water condenses on or in the wet coating. Using heat ( hair dryer ) or a slower solvent or retarder.

BORATE: As related to use on wood, a water-soluble inorganic borate salt containing compound with insecticidal, termiticidal and fungicidal properties. Shell-Guard by Perma-Chink Systems, for example, is a borate.  Borates are used on bare wood for eliminating and providing protection against wood decay fungi and wood eating insects.

BREATHE (breathable): Stains that allow the passage of moisture vapor from the substrate ( wood ) through the stain.

CHALKING: Deterioration of surface exterior stain/paint upon weathering into a faded, powdery substance. Chalk should be removed prior to repainting.

CHECKS: Pronounced cracks in logs, timbers and wood siding.

COATING: A paint, stain, varnish, lacquer or other finish that provides a protective coating over a a substrate (wood or vinyl).

DRIER: A material used in a stain/paint that enables it to cure.

DRY TO TOUCH: Drying stage of a coating at which it has hardened/cured enough that it may be touched lightly without any of it adhering to the finger.

E.P.A.: Some stains have the approval of the Environmental Protection Agency.

FADING: Lightening of the stain/paint’s color, usually caused by exposure to light, heat or the weather.

FILM FORMING: A stain/paint which lays on top of the substrate (wood) and forms a film on the surface.

FLAKE OFF: Pieces of paint film or undercoat falling off a substrate, usually due to poor adhesion.

FUNGICIDE: An ingredient used in some coatings and sealants to help keep mildew and other fungi from growing on the surface.

CHINKING:  A water-based, synthetic textured sealant like mortar and has considerable elasticity and flexibility.

CHINK PAINT: An elastomeric, texture coating for renewing or changing the color of chinking.

GASKET TAPE:  A closed-cell, medium density (8lb.) PVC foam with pressure-sensitive adhesive on one side, gasket tape is installed between log courses during construction to form a uniform seal between the logs. It is flexible and provides a high performance seal against dust, light, air and moisture during seasoning of the logs.

GRIP STRIP: A chemically inert closed-cell polyethylene that is shaped (3 sided) to fit between log courses to form a flat surface for the application of chink or caulk.

HIGH SOLIDS: Stain/paints that have more pigment and resin (film formers).

HVLP: High volume low pressure spray equipment which delivers stain/paint at a low pressure of no more than 10 PSI ( at the air cap)  but with a greater volume of air. Produces higher transfer efficiency, less bounce back and overspray.

IRON TANNATES: Iron tannates form dark colored discolorations that can appear as streaking spots or large dark blotches, sometimes covering an entire wall. This process may take some time to occur resulting in tannate discolorations showing up several months after a stain has been applied. Bleach residue is responsible for most problems related to iron tannates but any product with high pH will do the same thing. That is why thoroughly rinsing any cleaner off the surface of wood before staining is crucial.

LATEX PAINTS/STAINS: Latex paint is a general term that covers all paints/stains that use synthetic Polymers such as acrylic, vinyl acrylic, styrene acrylic, i.e., as binders. The term  is applied to most water-based paints. They look milky when wet and clear when dry.

LIGNIN:  A organic substance binding cells, fibers and vessels which constitute wood and the lignified elements in plants, as in straw.

LOG GAP CAPS: Pre-cut log gap caps reduce air infiltration where round logs meet window and door trim.

MATTE FINISH: A stain/paint with a flat appearance; no sheen.

MILDEWCIDE: A chemical agent, often included in exterior stains, paints and caulk, that discourages mildew growth on the painted surface.

MILDEW/MOLD/ALGAE: Mold, mildew (a form of mold) and algae are colonies of living organisms that grow on the surface of many materials including wood. Their color rangesfrom white to black and colors in between. They are typically round with well defined edges. It forms most often on areas that tend to be damp and receive little or no sunlight. Also, if the substrate (wood) is not completely dry prior to applying some stains or paints, damp wood may lead to growth of mold.

NANO: As related to stains, finishes which have very small molecules ( nano particles) leading to deeper penetration into the substrate (wood), thereby sealing and protecting the surface for a longer period of time.

NATURAL LOOK OF WOOD: The term “natural” as associated with wood finishes (stains) may mean no color (clear), an actual color of a product or texture of natural wood.

P H: pH stands for the power of hydrogen. In chemistry, pH is a numeric scale used to specify the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution (water). pH is important as related to logs/log siding when wood is cleaned.  After any cleaner is rinsed from the wood, a pH strip should be used to measure the pH.  Use a pH strip to catch rinse water at the bottom of the wall. If the pH strip measures from 6.5 –  7.5 the wall has been rinsed well. If not, rinse again and measure until normal. If the walls are not rinsed sufficiently, problems may arise that affect how the wood accepts the stain. Also, discoloration of the walls may occur weeks after a stain has been applied.

POLYMER: Synthetic organic materials used as resins, I.E.  in wood finishes and plastics.

PIGMENT: Tint (color)

PICTURE FRAME EFFECT: Fading and graying over time of interior wood  walls and wood flooring where pictures and rugs have been placed. Indirect UV exposure darkens the lignin in wood contributing to the picture frame effect.

RESIN: A clear or semi-clear part of a stain/paint film which gives solids or film build. Resin gives the finish shine, gloss, durability, adhesion, handling and drying characteristics.

SEALANT: In the log home industry the term sealant commonly means caulk or chinking.

SEMI-TRANSPARENT STAIN: Stain that alters the natural color of the wood, yet allows the grain and texture to show through.

SHEETING: Refers to the way water runs off water-based stains/finishes. They typically do not have paraffin and do not “bead” as water does on oil-based finishes.

SOLIDS: The part of the paint, pigments and resin which do not evaporate.

STAIN: A partly transparent coating that can color wood without obscuring the grain and/or the texture.

SUBSTRATE: Any surface to which a coating or sealant is applied.

TACK FREE:  Time in the drying of a paint/stain when it is not sticky but not completely cured.

TACKY: The stage in the drying process at which the stain/paint is sticky when lightly touched.

TOP COAT: As related to wood finishes, the final clear coat required with some family of products, such as Perma-Chink Systems Lifeline Advance Top Coat. NO top coat should be applied over a stain (wood finish) unless designated by that product line.

TRANS OXIDE PIGMENTS: As related to use on wood, high performance transparent iron oxide pigments with excellent UV absorption, transparency and weathering stability.

TREE RESIN BLEED:  Referred to as sap, pitch or resin that bleeds out of logs as hot weather approaches. The resin is produced mostly by softwood species like spruce, pine and fir. There is no way to outwardly determine if a log will bleed resin or not. Once bleeding begins, it is virtually impossible to halt the flow of sticky resin. It will burst through coatings and form a sticky mass on top of the finish. This process may continue for years.

UV: Exposure to direct or indirect sun.

VICOSITY: Determined by allowing a measured amount to flow through an orifice and measuring the time it takes for the amount to flow.

V.O.C:  Volatile Organic Compound refers to any carbon compound that evaporates under standard test conditions. Essentially, all paint and caulk solvents except water are classified as VOCs. Some government agencies are limiting the amount of VOCs permitted in paint because of concerns about environmental and health effects.

WATERBORNE: A coating containing more than 5% water in its volatile fraction.

WET ON DAMP APPLICATION:  Wet on damp means to apply a liberal, uniform coat onto the wood, and then within 10 – 15 minutes return to that section and apply a second coat while the first coat is still slightly wet or damp.

Learn How to Seal Checks in Logs

Article content courtesy Perma-Chink Systems, LLC

It is virtually impossible to prevent logs from developing cracks and checks as they age and dry. That’s because as a large piece of wood seasons, mechanical stresses build up until the surface stress becomes so great that the wood cracks. We call these stress cracks “checks.”

Do checks need to be sealed? Upward facing checks can collect water increasing the interior moisture content of the log. If they continue to collect water and the wood remains damp, they can eventually result in internal wood decay as well as provide nesting sites for carpenter ants and other insects. It is not necessary to seal checks on the bottom half of round logs since they do not collect water but for a uniform appearance you may want to seal them too. It is not usually necessary to seal checks or fissures that are less than 1/4” wide since they cannot accumulate that much water.

If your home is new and the logs or siding are green, it may be best to wait a year or so before addressing the checks. This allows the wood to reach an equilibrium with its environment and by then most of the larger checks will have opened. On seasoned wood or an older home that’s in the process of being refinished you can seal the checks either before or after applying a stain.

Checks and splits in logs present a different set of dynamics than those typically addressed by a caulk. They open and close as the log’s moisture content varies throughout the year. The opening width of a check may change as much as 50% from summer to winter. Most sealants are designed to cope with a different set of conditions and are ill suited for sealing checks. Check Mate 2 is specifically formulated to meet the particular requirements for sealing checks that appear in logs and log siding.

When initially applied 3/8” thick in a check the Check Mate 2 bonds to the sides of the check. As the check opens, the Check Mate 2 stretches to maintain a water-tight seal. The role the Backer Rod plays is to maintain a Check Mate 2 thickness of 3/8” during the application and two point contact with the wood. Two point adhesion enables Check Mate 2 to elongate and contract.

APPLICATION DIRECTIONS:check mate 2 step by step1. Begin by cleaning any dust, dirt, oil, solvent or previous sealer out of the check. Previously applied caulks can usually be easily pulled or scraped out with a hook knife. If the check is upward-facing and has allowed water penetration, pour some Shell-Guard RTU into it. This will kill any decay fungi present and prevent further deterioration of the log due to rot. If the wood within the check is damp from cleaning, rain or a borate treatment make sure the check has time to dry before applying Check Mate. You can speed up the drying process by blowing the water out of the check with a leaf blower. The last thing you want to do is to trap any water within the check.

2. For sealing checks 1/4″ wide or larger, Check Mate 2 should be always used in conjunction with Backer Rod. Insert the Backer Rod into the check and use a trowel or other implement to push the Backer Rod about 3/8” to 1/2” deep. If you push it deeper than 1/2” the cured Check Mate 2 will be too thick and may rip away from the sides of the check. If the Backer Rod is placed too close to the surface the Check Mate 2 may end up too thin and split.

3. For a neat, clean appearance you can use masking tape to mask off the wood on either side of the check. Be sure to remove the masking tape right after you tool the Check Mate 2 smooth. If you remove the masking tape after the Check Mate 2 has begun to dry you will pull the top layer of Check Mate 2 off along with the masking tape.

4. Cut the tip of the Check Mate 2 tube to about the same diameter as the checks you plan to fill (a little smaller diameter is better than one too large). Fill the space between the Backer Rod and log surface with Check Mate 2 using a standard caulk gun. Check Mate 2 must have good contact with wood on either side of the check and be sure the crack or check is completely sealed from end to end.

5. Tool the surface smooth with a trowel, spatula or wet finger and remove overflow immediately with a damp cloth. Don’t forget that the masking tape must be removed while the Check Mate 2 is still wet.

6. Check Mate 2 will dry to the touch in about one hour but complete curing may take several days depending on application thickness, temperature and weather conditions. The color of Check Mate 2 as it comes out of the tube is always lighter than the final cured color. Note: Newly applied Check Mate 2 Clear is white but turns clear when cured.

7. Clean tools and hands with soap and water.

Learn to Calculate How Much Caulking or Chinking You Need

Article content provided by Perma-Chink Systems, LLC.

When it comes to ordering sealants like Perma-Chink or Energy Seal there are two dimensions that you need to know in order to determine how much product you will need:

  • the width of the gaps or joints that you want to seal
  • the cumulative length (linear feet) of the gaps or joints that you want to seal

The width is fairly easy to determine. If it is a chink joint on a squared log, it is the average distance between upper and lower log surfaces.square log chink joint

If it is a round log chink joint, you first have to insert a length of proper size Grip Strip and then measure the distance between the top and bottom logs about 3/8 of an inch in front of the surface of the Grip Strip.

round log chink joint

In the case of Energy Seal caulk it is the width of the gap and size of the backer rod that determines the width of the Energy Seal.

backer rod energy seal

When estimating your purchase requirements for an entire log home the task of determining how many linear feet of sealant you will need can be somewhat overwhelming. However, if you break it down to one wall at a time and then add all of the walls together it becomes much simpler. Calculating the number of linear feet of chink joints or sealant gaps in a log wall is fairly easy when following these steps:

  1. Start by measuring the length of the wall with a tape measure.
  2. Then count the number of joints you need to seal. Usually it is the number of log courses minus one.
  3. When you multiply these two numbers together you have the linear feet of sealant required for that wall. Don’t worry about subtracting the windows or doors unless they take up a substantial portion of the wall area. You will need to seal around them anyway.
  4. If you are planning to run a bead of sealant in the corners or other vertical seamsenergy seal corner of round logs you need to know the height of the wall then multiply the height by a factor of 1.25 to compensate for the increased surface area created by the curvature of the logs.
  5. Once you have determined both the width of the sealant joint and total number of linear feet you will be sealing, reference the charts below to find out how many tubes, cases or 5 gallon pails you need for your project. If  you were thinking about using tubes of either product consider this, the price difference between two pails of Perma-Chink or Energy Seal and an equal amount of material in tubes more than covers the cost of a Cox bulk loading gun and follow plate.

Energy Seal Coverage Rates 

When applied to 5/16th to 3/8” thickness

(Note: 1 x 5 gallon pail = 20 x 30oz tubes = 55 x 11oz tubes)

Bead Size 11 oz 30 oz 5 gallon
1/2″ gap 16 LF 48 LF 975 LF
¾” gap 11 LF 32 LF 650 LF
1” gap 8   LF 24 LF 490 LF
For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink For gaps over 1” use Perma-Chink

Perma-Chink 5 Gallon Bucket Coverage

(Note: 1 x 5 gallon pail = 20 x 30oz tubes = 55 x 11oz tubes)

Gap Width Coverage of 1-5 gallon Bucket
For Gaps Smaller than 1” in Width Use Energy Seal Caulk
1” 380 Linear Feet
11/2” 256 Linear Feet
2” 192 Linear Feet
21/2” 154 Linear Feet
3” 127 Linear Feet
31/2” 110 Linear Feet
4” 96 Linear Feet
41/2” 85 Linear Feet
5” 76 Linear Feet
6” 63.5 Linear Feet

Free Shipping on All Perma-Chink Products Starting July 1st

cardboard box is now offering free shipping on select Perma-Chink products to the continental United States starting July 1, 2016.  Excludes single tubes of Check Mate 2, Energy Seal and Perma-Chink Log Chinking, Check Mate Kits, 32 oz E-Wood, 24 oz M-Balm. No minimums.

Log Wash Concentrate Wood Renew Concentrated Cleaner Lifeline Ultra 2 Wood Finish Lifeline Ultra 7 Wood Finish Lifeline Advance Top Coat
Lifeline Interior Wood Finish Lifeline Accents Interior and Exterior Lifeline Acrylic Top Coat Energy Seal Log Caulk Perma-Chink Log Chinking
Check Mate 2 Check and Crack Filler Perma-Chink Chink Paint M-Balm E-Wood Shell-Guard RTU