Using Wood Renew and Log Wash to get the most out of your Lifeline application

Wood ReNew is a safe, effective cleaner designed to remove mill glaze, mold, mildew, dirt and UV  graying from wood surfaces. If you are planning on applying finish to bare wood that is weathered or has extensive mill glaze  and you have chosen Perma-Chink exterior finishes, consider using Wood ReNew.  Wood ReNew contains a thickener that helps it adhere to log walls and siding. In addition, Wood ReNew will also help remove old worn Perma-Chink Systems exterior finishes.

Log Wash is a pH balanced liquid concentrate for cleaning log and wood surfaces. Use Log Wash to prepare the surface of bare wood for an initial coat of stain and as an annual/semi maintenance cleaner. If you are applying  Perma-Chink exterior finishes to bare wood without mill glaze or your are applying a maintenance coat of Perma-Chink exterior finishes, Log Wash is a great choice.

A part of the Perma-Chink family of products, Wood ReNew and Log Wash are designed to work compatibly with Energy Seal, Checkmate 2, Perma-Chink Log Chinking and all Perma-Chink Systems exterior finishes.  Wood ReNew and Log Wash are the preferred products for use with Perma-Chink Systems finishes.

Both Wood ReNew and Log Wash are available in 1 gallon jugs.


Perfect surface prep with KleenStart before applying Outlast Q8 Log Oil

Outlast KleenStart is part of CTA Products Group that manufactures Outlast Q8 Log Oil. Outlast KleenStart is gentle to wood fibers unlike harsh chlorine treatments. Great for anything wood or vinyl that requires deep down cleaning or brightening. Outlast KleenStart is the preferred cleaner on new construction when Outlast Q8 Log Oil will be applied or cleaning prior to applying a maintenance coat of Outlast Q8 Log Oil.

Uses: Both wood and vinyl siding, decks, roofs (wood,  composite and tile)  tents, full logs, outdoor furniture and fences. Loosens stains caused by mildew and mold for easy rinsing.

  • Biodegradable
  • Non-toxic
  • Contains 100% percarbonate. No fillers added!
  • Interior and exterior use
  • Removes mill glaze
  • Gently lightens grayed UV damaged wood
  • Brightens and cleans
  • Water thin solution- flows easily with a pump-up garden sprayer
  • Easily rinses off by garden hose or low pressure washer. No “slick bleach type” residue requiring excessive rinsing.

For more about applying KleenStart click here.

Introducing ABR Fireplace Cleaner- Waterless, vinyl-free cleaning for your fireplace surround.

Introducing ABR WATERLESS Fireplace Cleaner-perfect for your next DIY project!
Is the outside of your fireplace dirty and you just do not know how to get it clean? We have the answer!
ABR Waterless Fireplace Cleaner™ is a waterless peelable coating that removes soot, dirt and grime from your interior or exterior fireplace. Apply, let it dry and peel the dirt away.

Check out ABR Waterless Fireplace Cleaner in action:

7 Tips for Preventing Log Rot

Logs and log siding come from trees. They are a natural product. The cause of wood rot is a fungi which grows rapidly in the presence of water that is trapped in wood. If  proper measures are not taken to prevent rot,  nature takes over.

Wood shrinks and expands naturally. This regular occurrence is caused by temperature and humidity. The expansion and contraction causes checks or cracks in the wood.  If those checks are upward facing they provide an ideal place for water to accumulate. When water mixes with naturally occurring fungi in an upward facing check, wood rot can result. There are a number of ways to prevent wood rot from day one.  Let’s look at each:

  1. Controlling water by design is a great way to prevent wood rot. Large overhangs and porches all around will keep water off your logs. If the water cannot get to your logs, rot will not be an issue. Gutters also do a great job keeping water from running off your roof, landing on a deck or patio and bouncing back up on the logs.
  2. All wood on your log home should be at least 24 inches off the ground. Make sure you design your foundation with enough height to make this a reality.
  3. Treat your logs and log siding first with an EPA registered wood preservative. The typical preservative options are borates such as those found in Shellguard and Shellguard RTU. These wood preservatives are safe to use according to the manufacturers directions and are effective at killing of the fungi that causes wood rot. These products are penetrators and must be applied to bare wood.
  4. A different approach to wood preservatives is a log home finish which is also a wood preservative such as Outlast Q8 Log Oil. This two in one product provides a beautiful finish as well as penetrating deep into the wood to kill off fungi. The active ingredient in Q8 Log Oil is Copper 8 Quinolinolate and it is just as effective the borate based product.
  5.  Another source of log rot is from water getting in around windows and doors as well as at corners and log butt ends. Energy Seal is the solution.  Before applying Energy Seal log caulk, always first insert a piece of backer rod.  No mater what species you have built your home from, you can rest assured that as temperatures rise and fall your logs will move. The backer rod allows the caulk to expand and contract without tearing.
  6. The best way to prevent rot is to keep water out of your wood. This can be done by using a top notch exterior finish on your logs and log siding and regularly maintaining that finish per the manufacturer’s directions. The key is maintaining that finish on a regular basis to keep water out.
  7. Logs and log siding are natural products. They shrink and check over time. When upward facing checks appear you should treat them to keep water out. The best way to deal with checks is to seal them up with Checkmate 2 .  First insert some round backer rod and then apply Checkmate 2 to a depth of approximately 3/8″. For step by step instructions on sealing checks visit




Keeping Your Home Carpenter Bee Free

Carpenter Bees rarely cause structural damage to homes unless they have been drilling and nesting in the same wood for years at a time. More likely damage will happen when woodpeckers hear the Carpenter Bee larvae in the nests and then start to damage the wood in order to get at a tasty meal.


Treatment as related to Carpenter Bees usually means taking control of the nesting areas by eliminating the bees or using products to repel the bees.

When to treat: (1) It is a good idea to treat in the spring, when bees are first observed, (2) again in mid-summer to kill any bees which may not have acquired a sufficient treatment when they emerged, and a third time in early fall to contact any over-wintering bees occupying the tunnels.

Carpenter Bees like many other bees are very effective pollinators. Currently, there is a global shortage of pollinators which is threatening  farmers’ livelihoods and our food supply.  Due to this concern, please consider pesticide-free alternatives when treating Carpenter Bee nests.

Pesticide Free Treatment and Prevention

Carpenter Bees emerge in early Spring from their nests and start to collect pollen.  On sunny, warm days, Carpenter Bees, both male and female, will leave the nesting holes. The females who are the active drillers will collect pollen to bring back to the nest, which will eventually feed the young.  At this time, you can safely use a coat hanger to eliminate any larvae in the nesting site by inserting the wire into the nest and breaking up any larval activity. Coat the holes in almond oil or NBS 30. Once that is done plug the holes with a small ball of aluminum foil and caulk the holes with wood caulk or fill in the hole with a wooden dowel.

To further prevent Carpenter Bee nesting, spray NBS 30 Insect Repellent, a mix of plant oils that makes wood smell unpleasant to Carpenter Bees as well as drilling wasps and ladybugs. Apply the repellent after plugging the holes in early Spring. NBS 30 can be mixed with water for a temporary (30-60 day) topical solution or mixed with wood finish (always in the last coat applied) for a longer term repellent solution.

To provide alternative nesting options for Carpenter Bees, drill 1/2″ holes in wood blocks and hang them in sheltered areas around your house and deck. The bees will often decide to nest in these blocks, rather than trying to re-drill nests in the fascia and soffits of your home.

Pesticide Treatment and Prevention

Prevention may be accomplished by an insecticide additive like Bug Juice added to standard paint or log home finishes on new structures or when maintenance coats are needed and will eliminate bees.

Treatment as it relates to elimination of Carpenter bees which have already drilled into a structure, involves steps recommended by entomologists which are effective in reducing future nesting activities.

In early Spring, obtain a pesticide, product containing carbaryl (Sevin), cyfluthrin or resmethrin. Insert this in the nesting hole. Wait for the bees to exit the hole, then plug the hole with aluminum foil and either caulk the hole with wood caulk, or use a wooden dowel. Avoid inhaling the insecticide or contaminating your clothing with the spray. Always stand upwind from the surface you’re treating.  Treated tunnels should be sealed with a small ball of aluminum foil and caulked with log caulk, wood putty or filled with a wooden dowel after 24-36 hours.

In conclusion, not everyone has the same level of issues with Carpenter Bees. Unfortunately, when even one hole is evident it should be treated with the full extent of treatment recommended for prevention. Treating one time and forgetting about it does not work! Monitor the situation from year to year in order to stay on top of the issue. An ounce of prevention………




Finishing new wood? Read on for essential tips.

When logs go through the planer, as most new,  smooth wood does during the milling process, the heat of the planer melts the natural sugars in the wood creating a barely visible film called mill glaze or mill scale. This little talked about film creates a barrier that interferes with the penetration and adhesion of wood finishes, which in turn can create long term issues with finish durability and performance.

When wood finish is applied to lumber that still has mill glaze, penetrant stains will often look spotty and show a decrease in performance. Film forming glossy or satin finishes may start to peel soon after application, have a spotty appearance and decreased durability and performance against the elements. To protect your investment initially and avoid costly re-do expenses, it is extremely important to remove mill glaze from wood before applying any type of finish.

Removing mill glaze can be done in a number of ways; suggests the two options below:

1.Washing with a wood cleaner:

The easiest way to remove mill glaze is to wash with a wood cleaner designed to remove mill glaze and clean wood. Wood cleaners formulated specifically for use on wood will maintain the proper pH balance of wood while removing mill glaze. Cleaners that contain oxalic acid, like X-180 Weathered Wood Restorer or sodium percarbonate like All Wood Cleaner do a great job of removing mill glaze. Most products that remove mill glaze are best applied with a pump up sprayer and then washed off with a pressure washer at no more than 500-600 psi. Do not use bleach unless specifically recommended by the wood finish manufacturer. Bleach is caustic and dramatically affects the pH of wood, which can cause spotting, streaking and all manner of application problems.


2. A light sanding:

If you have the people power and/or a small surface to remove mill glaze from, use a fine to very fine grit sand paper to give the wood surface a light sanding. After sanding, be sure to use a vacuum or leaf blower to make sure all the sawdust from sanding is removed from the wood. Even small amounts of fine sawdust left on logs can cause a lot of problems when staining, preventing stain from being absorbed and creating an uneven finish. This results in decreased finish performance and durability.

Removing mill glaze is the essential first step in a quality wood finish application. Questions about your specific project? Leave a question in the comments section below, send us an email at, or give us a call at 888-208-2248.




Safely remove layers of paint on old furniture, cabinets and walls.

Soy Gel is a non-caustic, biodegradable paint stripper that removes multiple layers of paint in one application. Suitable for removal of paint, varnish, urethane, and enamel, Soy Gel does the work with no toxic fumes, no methylene chloride and low odor. Made with 100% USA grown soy beans, it is safe for use indoors. Check out the video below for step-by-step paint removal with Soy Gel and to see Soy Gel in action:


Protect Your Interior Floors and Walls from the “Picture Frame” Effect

Lignins are a class of complex organic polymers that are important in forming the cell walls of wood.  While lignins help make wood an ideal building material because of their part in creating the fibrous nature of wood, lignins are also what makes wood vulnerable to fading and graying when exposed to sun over time.  If wood floors and interior walls are left unprotected from sun exposure over time, a “picture frame” effect may take place. This effect occurs when the wood exposed to sunlight darkens more than the wood that is covered. Through natural processes over time, the ultraviolet light in sunlight darkens the lignin component of wood. The “picture frame effect” can be  prevented by  putting an additive into the first coat of some interior wood finishes. UV boost combines with the lignin in the wood and then delays the breakdown of the lignan fibers, keeping the wood from darkening over time.  UV boost can be added to the first coat on bare wood of any Perma-Chink Systems wood finish.

Product Facts:uv boost container

  • Low odor
  • Non-Toxic
  • For use only in water-based stains & finishes produced by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
  • Use in Lifeline Interior and Sure Shine Floor Finish.
  • Available in bottles to treat one and five gallon containers
  • Please note: UV Boost is only effective when used in the first coat of stain or finish applied to bare wood. It is not effective when added to topcoats or stains applied over an existing finish.

For more product information click here.





Remove carpet and vinyl with this dust-free, safe alternative to traditional grinders or chemical softeners

black mastic removal with bean-e-doo

Pull up old carpet or tile and give your home interior a facelift this Winter. Made with the DIY-er in mind, Bean-e-doo Mastic Remover is a non-toxic, cost-effective, dust-free alternative for mastic removal to many of the chemical mastic removers and grinders available today. Bean-e-doo is also made in the USA with renewable resources. Have an old floor covering to remove that has asbestos containing black mastic underneath? Bean-e-doo encapsulates and neutralizes asbestos, making the mastic safe for disposal in the landfill. Appropriate for black, yellow and white mastic.

Complete your project easily when you follow these tips:

  • Make sure all mastic surfaces are fully covered yellow mastic removal with bean-e-doowith Bean-e-doo.
  • Use Bean-e-doo for removing mastic on concrete floors only.
  • Time is a key ingredient in getting great results from Bean-e-doo, so make sure to let the Bean-e-doo soak for a long period. Reserve anywhere from 4-24 hours for the Bean-e-doo to work its magic.
  • All you need for application is a long handheld brush or broom.

For clean up make sure you have the following:

  • Long handled scraper or squeegee
  • Commercial absorbent
  • Shovel
  • Mop
  • Degreaser (Emerge or Dawn-like dish detergent)
  • Trash Bags

Check out Bean-e-doo coverage and dwell time in the chart below:

Mastic Type Mastic Color Approximate Dwell Time Coverage
Asbestos Mastic black 1-4 hours 100-150 SF per gallon
Vinyl, Latex, or Acrylic Mastic yellow 4-24 hours Up to 100-150 SF per gallon
Ceramic Tile Mastic yellow, white 4-24 hours Up to 100-150 SF per gallon

Checkout this recent testimonial from one of our customers:

“If I could give this product 10 stars I would. We were amazed with the result. Having purchased a home built in 1963 we removed the carpeting and discovered old asbestos tiles beneath. When we pulled them up we were met with an awful stench and the black mastic adhesive that was used to lay the tiles 52 years ago. I read about Bean-e-doo and we thought we’d give it a try. We applied it to 1/4 of the bedroom area with a broom, as recommended. We waited 1 hour but didn’t get the results we wanted so we waited an additional hour and were amazed at what we saw. We used a string mop and hot water in an old bucket to mop up the product and in no time at all…there was the concrete floor and no more smelly, black mastic adhesive. We’re looking forward to removing the rest of the adhesive in one room and finishing with a second room tomorrow. I’m so glad we found your product and now we’ll feel safe and odor free when we’re ready to lay our new flooring next week. I highly recommend this product and wish we were able to purchase it locally through a hardware store or Home Depot. There are many old homes in our area and I plan to spread the word about Bean-e-doo.” Renee, Customer

Check out Bean-e-doo in Action :



How to Store Sealants and Finishes During Winter

Freezing temperatures are here! In order to get the best value out of your product investment, know how to store your leftover or unused sealants and finishes during Winter. Here are some guidelines on storage:

In general, it is best not to let any of of these products freeze.  Though some sealants and finishes may be listed as “freeze-thaw stable” it is important to know that any finish or sealant that has been frozen will never completely regain all of the initial properties it had before it was frozen, however, it may still be usable.

Each freeze/thaw cycle log cabin drawingcontributes to the degradation of sealants and finishes. In the event that the product went through multiple freeze/thaw cycles (or more cycles than recommended by the manufacturer) it is most likely that the product is no longer suitable for use and best to start again with a fresh batch.

In the event that the sealant or finish does get frozen, it is best to let the product stay frozen for the duration of the season, rather that bring it inside to thaw and risk it being frozen again. The succession of the freeze/thaw cycle occurring repeatedly is  what primarily causes the breakdown of the product.

See below for product by product guidelines for freeze/thaw stability. Unless otherwise stated all products distributed by should ideally be stored in a cool, dry place away from children and pets.

Product Classification Shelf Life
Outlast Q8 Log Oil Freeze/Thaw Stable Indefinite when stored in a cool, dry place.
NBS 30 Freeze/Thaw Stable Indefinite when stored in a cool, dry place unopened.
Mold-Buster Mildewcide Freeze/Thaw Stable 3-4 years when unopened and not allowed to freeze.
Bug Juice Freeze Thaw Stable Not opened should last up to 2 years. Opened but recapped/tightly sealed same amount of time. If container is not sealed properly, over time it will dry out.
Sikkens Proluxe Cetol Log & Siding Freezable 5 year maximum shelf life when unopened.
Sikkens Proluxe SRD Freezable 2 years maximum when unopened.
Sikkens Proluxe Cetol Maintenance Freezable 5 years maximum when unopened.
WeatherSeal Freeze/Thaw Stable (through at least 10 cycles) 8-10 years when properly sealed. Make sure to remove skin and stir thoroughly before use.
Lifeline Ultra 7 Limited Freeze/Thaw Stable (through 5 cycles) 3 years
Lifeline Ultra 2 Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 years
Lifeline Interior Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 Years
Lifeline Acrylic Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 Years
Lifeline Advance Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 Years
Energy Seal Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 Years
Perma-Chink Log Chinking Freeze/Thaw Stable 3 Years
CheckMate 2 Freeze/Thaw Stable 1 Year
Seal Once Poly Blend Freeze/Thaw Stable up to 3 cycles Unopened shelf life of 18 months.
Seal Once Total Wood Protection Freeze/Thaw Stable up to 3 cycles Indefinite when unopened and stored in  cool, dry place.