Since 1981, Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking and Sealant has proven itself on thousands of chinked and chinkless style homes to become the most widely applied chinking in the world. It’s simply the best chinking by every measure: longevity, appearance, performance and ease of application. Even though it looks and feels like traditional mortar, it is not. Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking is a pure acrylic that adheres to logs and stretches to maintain a tight seal by following log movement on homes which require chinking as part of the home design or offer the option of a chink gap.
- Eliminates air and water infiltration
- Remains flexible to allow for log movement
- For exterior and interior
- Suitable for all climates
- Superior elongation, adhesion and durability
- Remains stable throughout the freeze-thaw process
- Resistant to chemicals, salt spray, water vapor, and mildew
- Skins over in less than two hours and cures in 2 -8 weeks, depending on temperature and humidity
- Easy to apply with a grout bag, caulking gun or a chink pump
- Requires only one application
- Cleans up quickly and easily with soap and water
- Safe to use
- VOC compliant and meets all current state and federal air quality requirements
|Gap Width||Coverage of 1-5 gallon Bucket|
|For Gaps Smaller than 1” in Width||Use Energy Seal Caulk|
|1”||380 Linear Feet|
|11/2”||256 Linear Feet|
|2”||192 Linear Feet|
|21/2”||154 Linear Feet|
|3”||127 Linear Feet|
|31/2”||110 Linear Feet|
|4”||96 Linear Feet|
|41/2”||85 Linear Feet|
|5”||76 Linear Feet|
|6”||63.5 Linear Feet|
Product Facts for Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking and Sealant
View the “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” PDF from LogFinish.com for additional information about applying and maintaining Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking.
|White #207||Light Gray #212||Medium Gray #224||Sandstone #215|
|Beige #216||Stone #211||Tan #219||Brown #223|
Measuring and Calculating Linear Feet
When it comes to ordering sealants like Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking there are two dimensions that you need to know to determine how much product you will need:
- Width of the gaps or joints. Determine gap width by:
- If it is a chink joint on a squared log it’s the average distance between upper and lower log surfaces.
- If it is round log chink joint you first have to insert a length of proper size Grip Strip Trapezoidal Backer Rod and then measure the distance between the top and bottom logs about 3/8 of an inch in front of the surface of the Grip Strip Trapezoidal Backer Rod.
- Cumulative length (linear feet) of those gaps and joints. Calculate linear feet by:
- Keep it simple by measuring one wall at a time then add all of the walls together after you have completed all individual wall calculations.
- Start by measuring the length of the wall with a tape measure.
- Count the number of joints you need to seal. Usually it is the number of log courses minus one.
- Then multiply the length of the wall by the number of joints you need to seal, this will give you the linear feet of sealant required for that wall.
- Don’t worry about subtracting the windows or doors unless they take up a substantial portion of the wall area. You will need to seal around them anyway.
- If you are planning to run a bead of sealant in the corners or other vertical seams of round logs you need to know the height of the wall then multiply the height by a factor of 1.25 to compensate for the increased surface area created by the curvature of the logs.
Once you have determined both the width of the sealant joint and total number of linear feet, go to the Perma-Chink Calculator, which will tell you the number of pails required to complete your project. If you were thinking about using tubes consider this, the price difference between two pails of Perma-Chink and an equal amount of material in tubes more than covers the cost of a Cox Bulk Loading Gun and Cox Follow Plate.
- Best to apply Perma-Chink after walls have been cleaned and stain is applied, but before Lifeline Advance Top Coat ( if this is the product of choice ). If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow stain to dry at least two weeks before applying Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking.
- Do not apply to oily or glass smooth surfaces.
- Some paraffin based stains and sealants may cause adhesion problems (if in doubt, test small area for adhesion).
- Chinking area must be clean, dry and free from loose or foreign materials.
- Before starting, inspect the installation of all backing materials. Where individual pieces of backing join to one another, make sure there are no gaps, ledges or discontinuities so that they don’t show through after the sealant has cured. Smooth, trim or bridge gaps with tape as necessary.
Backer Rod and Grip Strip
Backing materials are an integral part of a sealant system and should be used wherever possible. The overall performance of any sealant system is dependent on the use of correct application thickness and proper backing. For small joinery the most commonly used backing is Round Backer Rod. It comes in a range of sizes and is relatively inexpensive. It is flexible it and can be pushed into a crevice without needing to be nailed or stapled.
- Freshly applied sealants should be protected from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. Either watch the weather or drape a newly sealed wall with plastic film. Be sure to allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying.
- Avoid applying sealants in cold weather (below 40°). It is important that the logs be free of frost and dew in order to ensure that the sealant adheres tightly to the wood.
- Apply when sealant and surface temperatures are between 40°F and 90°F
- Do not apply in direct sunlight, especially on south and west If newly applied chinking is exposed to sunlight blisters may develop. The effect can be minimized by shading the walls with white tarps for the first 1-2 days. In the first few days, blisters can be closed by puncturing the surface skin of the chinking and carefully pressing the blister surface back against the wet chinking inside.
- Do not apply if rain is expected within 24 hours
Please Note: Temperature and humidity are largely responsible for log movement. When the temperature rises, the logs will expand, and at the coldest temperature, they will contract. When you apply sealant during cold, damp conditions the logs will more than likely be at the smallest dimensions (after some normal shrinkage may have occurred). When the weather dries out and warms up, the sealant will normally relax. Conversely, if you apply sealant during hot, dry conditions, the joint will be at its smallest point, and when temperatures fall or even turn very humid, the logs may contract and put the sealant in stress. Sometimes the contraction or movement may be severe enough to tear the sealant.
Apply Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking after staining for the best finished appearance and least total labor to avoid getting stain on the new chinking.
- Best: after application of Lifeline, but before Lifeline Advance clear topcoat (Lifeline Advance should be applied over Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking, making it easier to clean in the future.)
- Second Best: after application of Lifeline stain and Lifeline Advance topcoat.
- Worst: Over a fresh application of oil based stain. Oil based stains must be allowed to dry for at least 2 Then, clean the chinking surface with alcohol to remove dust and oily residues.
- Wear old clothes and shoes. Perma-Chink is not easily removed from fabric. Discard used rags, etc. in proper disposal containers.
- Always maintain a clean working area.
- When ready to quit for the day, leave bag or gun containing material in a moderately warm place. The open ends of the bag or gun will form a “plug“; this will prevent the rest of the material from curing.
- When ready to begin again, squeeze the plug out, discard hardened material and continue.
- When reusing an open bucket of material, be sure to remove any partially cured “skin” before filling bag or gun
- Cover the edges of the seam with a painters tape to avoid getting chinking on the wood surface.
- Cut the applicator tip to the desired diameter of the sealant bead you want to apply.
- Begin by holding the applicator tip firmly against the seam and apply a bead of sealant.
- Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of at least 5/16” and no more than ½” across the entire seam after tooling.
- Apply as much sealant as you can tool smooth in about 15 minutes to avoid a dried skin before final finishing.
- After the joint is filled, trowel out to approximately 3/8th” thick across the entire joint, making sure there is good contact between the sealant and the wood.
- Do not spray with water at this time! Be careful to maintain proper thickness especially in corners.
- All joints should be tooled by spraying a small amount of water onto the chinking and smooth to the desired finish. Do not saturate the surface with water. If it begins to run you have applied too much. Always trowel in such a way as to form a good seal to the wood. Maintain a depth a little more than 1/4″, as the material will shrink slightly when cured.
Tip: Occasionally check the sealant using a toothpick to see if you are maintaining proper thickness. Once the sealant is roughly in place with air worked out of it, spray it with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula.
Tip: If you used masking tape at the edges of the Perma-Chink, remove it now and smooth out edges with your tool.
Insuring a Proper Chinking Joint
Do Not Under Fill a Chinking Joint
It is better to fill a joint deeper than it is to make it too thin; you need an adequate mass of material to absorb movement that is created by logs expanding and contracting with the seasons.
- Regardless of the joint width, no joint should be deeper than 1/2″.
- Proper backer material should be used to bring the depth up to within 1/2″ of the surface.
- Do not fill excess voids with chinking or caulking.
Two Point Adhesion
Chinking or caulking must be able to move when the wood moves.
- The sealant material should adhere to only the surfaces that move, usually the top and bottom logs. If all the contact area is sealed, there will likely be a tearing at the point of the most stress.
- Using a proper backer material will allow the material to release if movement occurs, while still maintaining an adhesive seal on the log.
- Proper backer materials are closed or open cell backer rods, or various “breaker” tapes may be used.
A caulking reservoir must be created so that there will be enough mass to allow movement of the wood and sealant. For example, if a product advertises 50% elongation, this tells you that a space must be created which is two to four times larger than whatever movement is expected of the wood. Basically if you expect an 1/8″ movement, your joint width should be 1/2″ to 3/4″.
- The larger the starting size allowed, the less likely it will be for log movements to exceed the sealant’s capabilities.
- A good rule of thumb is that gap width should be a minimum of one sixth of the log diameter (i.e. 8″ log/6=1.3″ finished joint width).
Tooling and Finishing of Joints
- All joints should be tooled by spraying a small amount of water onto the chinking and smoothed to the desired finish.
- Always trowel to form a good seal to the wood. Maintain a depth a little more than 1/4″, as the material will shrink slightly when cured.
Full Round Log Construction
- For full-round log construction, the finished width of the chinking seam should be approximately 1/6 of the log diameter (i.e. if your logs are 15” diameter, the chinking seam should be about 2-1/2 inches wide.
- Select the correct size trapezoid rod that fits flush with the logs. Be sure that edges are flush with log surface and do not protrude. Edges that protrude may cause a “thin” or weak point in the finished chinking.
- Press rod into place and glue or staple securely. For logs where 3/4″ trapezoid rod is too big to fit properly, use 1/4″, 3/8″, or 1/2″ round rod. There should be no “give” to properly installed backing material.
- When applying chinking, there should be a minimum depth of 1/4″ over the entire rod, not to exceed 3/8″, use a trowel to smooth, obtain a finished look and proper seal to upper and lower logs.
Square Log Construction
Please note: It is always best to install backing materials such that the finished chinking application does not result in a horizontal lip or ledge at the bottom edge of the seam where rainwater can accumulate.
Foam Backer Systems
- Many pre-cut log systems will furnish an EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) or Beadboard or it may be up to the applicator to install the board prior to the chinking application. In either case, the board should be installed as per the instructions of the home manufacturer.
- The board should fit snugly into the chinking area, with no gaps or sharp edges for the chinking to stretch over. Any fasteners used to secure the board should be galvanized to prevent rusting. Do not sink fasteners below the surface of the backer; this will cause a “dimple” in the surface once the chinking material has cured. Remember, the smoother the backer, the smoother the chinking will be.
- If the foam is not furnished with the home, efforts should be taken to secure the proper board. Using improper boards may cause “blistering” from outgassing of the board. Always use EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) or Do not use Pinkboard, Blueboard or any other board that is not Expanded Polystyrene. Other extruded boards usually have a thin, transparent plastic film on at least one side. Beadboard has no film installed, and is easily obtained at most building supply stores.
- Log systems that are hewn flat on two vertical sides should have an Expanded Polystyrene bevel cut to fit the log profile. Once installed, it should be stapled in place. All “butt” joints should be fitted together tightly and if any gaps are present, they should have masking tape applied over the voids (see picture). Be sure to pre-cut the Beadboard slightly larger than the joint size, which makes it easier to handle. A hot knife should always be used for cutting ,and log systems that are hewn or sawn on all four sides should have Expanded Polystyrene cut to fit snugly into the chinking area and pressed firmly into place taking care not to leave any gaps or voids between the logs and foam. All “butt” joints should fit as tightly together as possible. Any voids or gaps should be taped over before applying any chinking. Any fasteners should be galvanized and installed as not to sink them below the surface, this could cause dimples in the finished chinking.
Log on Log, or Solid Log Wall Systems
- Install masking tape over the vertical face of the joint. Do not cover the very top and bottom of the horizontal area the chinking must adhere to.
- Apply Perma-Chink at the recommended 1/4″ – 3/8″ thickness, making sure the chinking is applied wide enough to go beyond the backer tape and adheres to the log surfaces.
Hard Board Spline Systems
- Install furnished spline in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Spline board should fit tightly to upper and lower logs, with no gaps at seams or joints. In some cases, there will be a slot in the bottom of the upper log to slide the spline into, which creates a “floating” spline to accommodate any movement.
- Apply Perma-Chink directly to the spline at the recommended 1/4″ -3/8″ thickness.
Restoration of Failed Mortar
- Use trapezoid or round backer rod to fill horizontal gaps and cracks where mortar has separated from logs due to shrinkage. Expanding foam may also be used to fill these areas. Be sure to trim away excess before applying any chinking.
- Expanded Polystyrene may be used to fill large gaps and voids where mortar has been removed.
- Old mortar does not need to be removed prior to applying Perma-Chink, if the mortar is solid and not crumbling.
- Perma-Chink is then applied over the entire surface. Always go past the mortar to get appropriate contacts to the logs.
Please note: If you get any sealant on the surface of the wood, be sure to wipe it off with a wet rag immediately. Dried sealant is very difficult to remove. Clean your tools and equipment with clean water occasionally during application.
- Remove masking tape.
- If properly applied, the cleanup area for chinking should be confined to the tube and utensils used.
- Warm soap and water is sufficient for proper clean up.
Store Perma-Chink chinking at moderate temperatures, in a clean, dry place and out of direct sunlight. Do not allow the material to freeze. Do not store in close proximity to radiant heat sources like fireplaces or wood stoves, as the excessive heat may cause the material to start curing.
Perma-Chink is available for shipment to all 50 states via FedEx.